Chandler Goes to Yemen (or How America Learns Geography)
With today’s technology, our planet is virtually tiny. We can learn instantaneously of something that happened a world away and watch it as it unfolds.
The news today not only keeps us informed and entertained but it also educates. I guess it has always educated us, but I realized today that a major news story is teaching something to Americans about geography.
The attempted Christmas Day bombing on a flight to Detroit has been featured nonstop since the holidays (and rightfully so). This shocking story has brought on policy reform, broad security changes and talk show stars out of formerly anonymous travelers. Yet it has also brought out something else: Yemen.
For those of you with closed ears, the young Nigerian man charged with attempting to destroy a plane, Umar Farouk Abdulmutallab was trained by Al-Qaeda in Yemen. This brings Yemen into a new national spotlight as a hotspot for terror, and a hot topic for television political pundits. Yet the State Department have always had Yemen on their list of countries harboring terrorist groups and training camps. This is not new information, just a revelation to the greater US (and possibly the world). This likely is the first instance where Joe Smith in Everytown, USA has heard of Yemen, previously not even being able to find it on a map.
At first I scoffed at the idea that so many Americans were only just learning of this country’s existence; I even tweeted about it. But then my friend Shayra pointed out that any fan of Friends would have known about it for years (Chandler claims he is transferring to Yemen for work to get out of a relationship with his annoying ex Janice), and I realized that that was how I first heard of it too. At the time, Yemen seemed an inconsequential and almost random country, home to not terrorists but Chandler Bing.
Which media-based revelation is worse? A classic pop culture reference or a major news story? Can Americans really be faulted when sitcoms are their only exposure to the smaller Middle Eastern countries? Can we charge the media with keeping America engaged in this knowledge? And now armed with this new geographical knowledge, what are Americans going to do with it?
“The time has come, the walrus said…”
Well, this is it. In less than two hours I’ll be heading back to the Ben Gurion airport in Tel Aviv to start my trek back to Boston, back to real life and my regular routine. While I’m happy to be heading back into my own space and known world, I know that I will deeply miss my experiences here.
I haven’t posted in a few days despite having things to say. While some of what I’ve seen has been new, relevant and interesting, part of it seems like I’d be rehashing my words. So why not have one grand summary post, shall we?
I left Boston ten days ago with a mixture of fear, excitement and adventure. I was worried about my personal safety (I mean, you hear what they say on the news…), excited about what I’d see and hear, and knowing that each day would hold a completely new experience. While my fears turned out to be unfounded, my other emotions were filled in spades. I am returning to Boston now wiser, wearier and worldlier and a completely new person.
This trip has provided so much information (almost to the saturation point) about the conflict and occupation. I now better understand the political situation, as well as some of the viewpoints of the Israelis and the Palestinians. I now understand that this is not really a war based on religion but on politics, land and economic opportunity. I always knew that both the Israeli and Palestinian people have a right to share the land and a right to happiness and equality. I now know that the largest perpetrators of the violations of human rights and international law is the Israeli military and government. Not the people. I have a better understanding of the sufferance of the Palestinian people and the daily hardships they have come to know.
This trip has armed me with stories. In America, we hear statistics and stories portraying Palestinians as the terrorists. We hear only about the good works that Israel is doing (which they are, but it’s not the whole story). Now I have seen the human face of the conflict; know stories of settlers, refugees, displaced persons and villagers. I have heard from Palestinians rich and poor, Israelis to the left and to the right and know where they stand and know the variances of their positions.
Most of all, I am reinvigorated. My purpose has been reborn. I’ve always known that I have wanted to create change, but this trip has revealed to me that my purpose in life is to give a voice to the voiceless; to speak for those who cannot speak for themselves. I want to be able to change the way of life for the Palestinian and Israeli people to one of peace and community. I want to be able to help the Palestinians and Israelis tear down the apartheid wall. I want to enable those who cannot help themselves.
This leads me down only a slightly different path than I was planning on before. I’ve known that I want to seek higher degrees in International Affairs and Public Policy, and I believe those will still be helpful in my quest. However, what my meetings over the past few days have shown me is that working with the laws and policy can really help bring the greatest results.
So what does that mean? Law school.
I’ve been pondering this idea for the past two years or so; running the gamut from determined to downright iffy. Yet meeting today at the Eshan Center for Human Rights in Bethlehem had me make up my mind. The law can directly help people, giving their voices a structure and a background. The International Affairs will give a breadth of a background in the Middle East and the developing countries that my heart aches for and the Public Policy will inform on the how and the what of change.
I know a great deal of work is ahead. Work in school and work to build my method and plan to inform the world of injustice. But I’m ready to take this on. I’m ready to start making a tangible difference in this world and I’m ready to improve the lives of others. I’m ready to sacrifice time and ready to improve myself through education and through doing.
I’m ready.
Rose in the Middle of a Sidewalk
Each and every meeting we have brings on a new sense of hope, optimism and understanding, particularly from the Palestinian community. While I never subscribed to the Bush administration’s idea of the Arab world “hating us for our freedoms,” I always thought that we, as Americans, would not be their favorite people.
I’ve been proven wrong.
Each and every person has been so accommodating to our group, telling us how welcome we are and going out of their way to be gracious hosts. I have never felt afraid or threatened while I was here, neither from the Israelis or the Palestinians.
It seems that the Palestinian community is really trying to grow; prove to the world that they can live their lives happily and not continue to be victims (or breed the stereotypical suicide bomber/terrorists we have come to associate with the nation as a whole). We visited the largely unknown town of Qalqilia today, which is located on the edge of the West Bank. Part of its lands were partitioned off to Israel in the 1948 UN Partition Plan (aka the Green Line), but since then, the Israeli military has built a wall completely around the city, annexing the land around Qalqilia for its rich agricultural capabilities. International news media has labeled the city as “the largest jail in the world.” Through the city, there were four entrances/exits, one at each end. Now only the eastern end is open, the rest blocked off and watched my armed Israeli soldiers.
We met with the mayor and several other municipality officials, who outlined their hopes for their ravaged city. Despite the huge unemployment rates (28-35%) and poverty level, they all remain hopeful that they will be able to change things around.
Inside of Qalqilia is a small zoo and “entertainment center” that houses a delicious restaurant, a few amusement park rides and a large playground. Many women walked around with their small children and it was amazing to see a bright and happy place amidst the general dreariness of cement walls and barbed wire that surround the town.
Proof that no matter what happens, there will always be the silver lining inside of a cloud.
Tourist or Terrorist?
For the record, I am writing this post under American distress – computer problems. I tried to connect wirelessly via the hotel connection at my hotel in Nablus, Palestine, but it seems that I am one of the few with troubles. So I am instead persevering on a slow desktop. I know, not really a big deal, but quite annoying all the same.
Anyways.
Today gave me a sense of optimism about this whole situation entirely. We met with a Jewish Israeli woman, representing the organization Peace Now. She specifically works on their “Settlement Watch” program.
I believe it was vital for our group to meet with her, because she brought a new viewpoint for us to examine: anti-occupation, pro-Palestinian state and Jewish Israeli. She feels that the tides are turning for everything, including the general Israeli population. More and more support and understanding is growing around the unfairness of the settlements and this can help lead to a greater internal grassroots movement. She also revered the “Obama effect,” the Arab nation’s proposed peace plan with Israel and the recent changes in Israeli government. What was the greatest benefit to my understanding of the problem was it coming from the viewpoint of a progressive (and religious) Israeli. While it added yet another shade of grey to my comprehension and decisiveness on the conflict, it gave me greater understanding. I can now appreciate the Israeli side of things more within the frame of peace.
Moving on from there, we visited a Palestinian refugee camp: 13,000 people living on one square kilometer in a run down section of Bethlehem. I was saddened, appalled and again inspired by what I saw: people working together to make the most of their grim situations. Children are being raised to think broadly, creatively and peacefully instead of becoming incensed with hatred and revenge. Despite their small (and at sometimes squalid) living arrangements, the sense of community was tangible, and made my own soul stronger.
Yet tonight, while traveling to Nablus in Area A of Palestine (otherwise known as the small area controlled completely by the Palestinian Authority), we hit a check point where the very young Israeli soldier opened our van door. At most of them we are waved through without a second glance, or perhaps some questions are asked of our Arab driver and/or tour guide or about our nationalities. Tonight he opened the door, looked around at our expectant faces, and then shut it and waved us on. I asked our tour guide, Ibrahim, what the purpose of it was. He jokingly said “I told him you were American tourists, and he wanted to make sure that you were tourists, not terrorists.”
The levels of security at the check point varies. Sometimes the soldiers barely glance at us as we pass, but other times I’ve noticed cars and other drivers getting a serious shakedown. People can sometimes stand for hours in their car waiting to pass through. What matters is the color of your license plate. Yellow is Israeli (our van has one of these) and Green or White with green writing is Palestinian. Those without yellow plates are often the ones most harassed. Yet even when stopped, the level of investigation is variable and subjective. Apparently all of our sweet, All-American apple pie faces said we were merely tourists, but we could easily have hidden something in the car.
This fact has not fazed me, despite the inherent worry it brings. It just makes me think about the Israeli justification for the entire occupation, “security” in quite a different way.
Hope this makes you question it as well.
I Bought an Olive Tree
Yes. An olive tree. No worries about customs though; it was in name only. This afternoon we visited a farm dubbed “The Tent of Nations.” It’s a large farm owned by a Palestinian family that is being threatened for takeover by the Israelis. It is surrounded by settlements on all sides, and despite the family holding the deeds from 1920, the Israeli government is trying to claim it as state land so they can build on it. A legal battle for the land has been raging on for years, and despite this, the family is making good use of it. Without electricity, running water, or a permit to build, the family is running a successful farm and camps throughout the year for volunteers and a summer camp for children. Aside from olives and grapes, they build bridges between people; showing that we are all human beings.
I found the work and perseverance of the whole operation to be inspiring. They are working the direct face of adversity and thriving.
Come spring time, an olive tree will be planted in my name on their farm, atop a mountain. To find out more about them, please see their website at http://www.tentofnations.org.
We also visited the largely Palestinian city of Hebron, touring the old city, visiting their main mosque and meeting with the group Christian Peacemaker Teams (CPT). Hebron is completely under Israeli military control, and are even stationed at the entrance to the mosques. I saw one military officer harass an elderly Muslim woman today as she tried to make her way in to pray. She continued to set off a metal detector and I don’t think understood why she was being held up. The officer was yelling at her and kicked her at one point. Very distressing to see. What more is that the street vendors (what is left of them, anyways) have to string nets between their shops to catch all the trash and rocks that are thrown down on them from the settlers above.
There has to be a better way for people to share space without diminishing the other.
We also met with a Jewish settler today. We listened respectfully as he spoke about his reasoning for moving to Israel and to the Ephrata settlement, and objected to the terms of “occupation,” preferring to call it “administering.” While he had fair points (all sides do), and understood that both sides have done right and wrong in the decades-long conflict. Yet I feel like his argument was not completely aware of the inherent unfairness in how things are “>currently. I respect his and all Jews who hold these views at this land is sacred to them as well, but there needs to be more common ground.
Tonight is the last night with our host family in Palestine. We return to hotel overnights starting tomorrow. I finally feel comfortable with the family (and the food!) and I recommend home stays for anyone travelling abroad. At least for one night.
My mind is feeling non-linear tonight, and I hope to have a more eloquent post for you tomorrow.
Take some time tomorrow to do something heartfelt and selfless. Find your own olive tree.
Just a Quick Word from Palestine
Apologies for not being able to update – I am spending three nights with a host family in Beit Sahour, Palestine. Only the father speaks English, so our interactions are limited but it’s proven to be an interesting experience.
We’ve spent yesterday and today in Palestine and the occupied territories. I’ve been learning a great deal about the occupation and blatant human rights violations and breaches of international law being committed daily by the Israelis – it’s apartheid for the Middle East.
I’m meeting amazing, strong and passionate people here in Palestine. A boy in a market in Nablus even hit on me! We’ve been to a university, a phenomenal Arab Women’s Union Society that has built a successful hospital for the ground up, and even a soap factory.
As I’m not on my own computer I can’t post any pictures but I will share this story about water in Palestine.
The Israelis living in the West Bank (occupied territories), although having a much smaller population, control most of the water. Ramallah, a major city in Palestine, only receives water regularly about three times a week. Some of the more remote villages get water about once a month. So all houses in Palestine have these black water holding tanks on their roofs to ensure that when they aren’t already provided water that they can still access some.
It’s just practices like these that make the daily lives of Palestinians so difficult, and want me to commit to working for their just human rights.
Not sure if I’ll be able to update tomorrow, but we will be seeing an Israeli settlement, meeting with a Christian peace group, and seeing Hebron.
And remember, being against the occupation is not being against Israel.
Blood of the Same Color
I am inspired, motivated and moved.
Tonight we received two representatives from the Parent’s Circle, a large organization of bereaved Palestinian and Israeli families. They come together to share their stories with the world, and talk about how they have all found common ground in working together to find a way towards peace.
An Israeli Jew and Palestinian Muslim man shared their stories of loss, each heartbreaking in its own way. Yet what was incredible is that both of these men said that instead of growing angry and finding vengeance upon their “enemy,” they chose to find understanding. While they could grow angry each day, they instead work to educate the world about the issues surrounding the conflict and occupation.
What was most remarkable to me was the presentation. Framing it with the human experience is something that literally everyone can relate to. While the problems of the Middle East might not matter to many of those across the world (particularly in America), hearing about the blatant human rights violations these people have experienced first hand is appalling. Hearing them both realize that Palestinians and Israelis are “human beings, with blood the same color, pain the same pain and tears just as bitter” plucked my heartstrings. What was best for me, though, was the diplomacy of the whole experience.
Since college I have been a huge proponent of public diplomacy via cultural understanding: bringing experiences to those of other cultures to garner more knowledge and compassion. These personal stories do just that. I was inspired by what this organization is doing; finding a common ground approach towards humanizing peace.
What more is that I found reassurance (so early! I know!) that this truly is what I want to do with my life: creating international change organically through advocacy. Their approach invigorated me and pushed me towards a new level of nirvana of learning on this trip.
I head to bed tonight eager for the historical menu of tomorrow’s agenda, but ready to put all this knowledge into constructive and peaceful action.
Are voters apathetic or uninformed?
Last week I voted in my first Massachusetts election, casting my vote in the municipal primary for Boston mayor and councilor-at-large. Voting in Massachusetts is a completely different (and far more confusing) experience than voting in my native New Hampshire, but that is a different story.
Voter turnout for this primary election was 23%. That’s less than a third of eligible voters. I know it’s a primary, which some people find frivolous, but I find this appalling. Primaries give voters a voice just as much as a general election; helping to whittle down the candidates to (in theory) the most qualified and competent. Why not be a part of that?
I blame apathy largely for this, but I also want to blame the City of Boston.
Coverage outside of the mayoral race was scarce if not impossible to find. Although there were articles here and there in the local papers and endorsements, they weren’t apparent. Unless you already knew the names of any of the 15 candidates for councilor-at-large, you were left in the dark. A comprehensive list didn’t even appear on the official elections website until the day of. How can the voters make informed decisions without even knowing who is running?
The City of Boston needs to provide a full list of candidates as soon as it becomes official. The local media outlets need to cover all races, not necessarily equally but more in depth. Voting regulations and registration rules need to be made clear far ahead of time for new residents and citizens. Polling places and dates need to be advertised far and wide.
I just hope that now that we have a much smaller candidate pool, the general election come November will be easier to understand and navigate.
Falling Feet First 